Brahmatal S
The joy of winter trekking
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| Mt Trishul from Jhandi Top |
“It is always the same with mountains. Once you have lived with them for any length of time, you belong to them. There is no escape.”
Ruskin Bond so aptly said those words. Having stayed for a significant amount of time due my profession in mountains, staying away from them makes me go back to them. Away from them, I develop a craving for them. I feel those pangs coming back to me, drawing me towards them. A magical call of the wild mountains.
Those who dance are considered insane
By those who do not hear the music.
To those who are enthralled by mountains,
They’re wonders beyond all disputes.
To those who are not
They are always a kind of madness.
Yes, it was considered madness, when I booked those tickets and I headed for a trek organized by India-Hikes. It was just a week before the actual departure that I did it. I was in doubt, thinking if I was doing the right thing . . . .
It was after a gap of twenty-one years that I was embarking on such an adventure. I had done such treks way back when I was young and in college. It was a long time back. I have seen a lot of things in these long years and I’ve witnessed some of the most thrilling places in the Himalayas—at extreme temperatures and at very high altitudes. But it was in a different setting and situation.
This was something new. But I was sure I wanted to do it. And did I repent it?
Not a bit. Read on as I unfold the adventure.
The adventure started at Rishikesh as I travelled all by myself. I decided to stay in a hostel, frequented by back packers. This was to be a new experience, as I had always stayed in the conventional touristy hotels.
The comfort and the style these comfy low budget hostels offered, really impressed me. Catering to a largely foreign crowd, this is a very affordable way to travel. All the modern amenities you expect from a decent hotel are packed in a format of hostel.
Fine linen, comfortable beds, clean washrooms and ample storage space—everything you require is thoughtfully provided. Add to this the yuppie and hep ambience, and it definitely becomes a heady cocktail!
Our trek members assembled at Rishikesh Zostel at six o'clock in the morning, where we all met for the first time. It was to be our assembly point. From here we set out on our long and arduous journey to Lohajung Base Camp. We travelled 300 km in a Tempo Traveler absorbing the holy sights of Karna Prayag and Rudra Prayag on the way.
The team started getting to know each other and gelling together, as we talked, exchanged notes and lunched together. By the time we reached Lohajung we already felt like old friends!
Lohajung at 7,600 ft above msl is an idyllic village. The ascent was very steep and the meandering road very narrow, as it made its way through a dense forest cover.
As we stepped out of our vehicle the intense cold hit us, making us shiver down to the bones. It was an indication of the things to come. We parked ourselves in the guest house with basic facilities. This was the last taste of modern amenities as we would head off into the wilderness the next morning.
After dinner, we spent time packing and arranging our rucksacks for the trek. Getting the right equipment and stuff was so crucial. We scurried to the store to rent or buy our missing stuff—a pair of socks or a woolen cap or may be a pocho!
A pre-trek briefing and medical was done by the extremely professional trek organisers.
We started our trek early in the morning with high spirits. The trail was moderately difficult as it ascended from the base camp. Enroute we appreciated the flora and fauna of the Chamoli hills. The white & red oaks, the rhodendrons and the firs.
The trail was snow clad in its last stretch as we approached the Bekaltal campsite. The first sight and touch of snow was full of wonder and amazement. For some, it was the first time—a brush with the snow. And no wonder they were filled with a child-like glee!
The Bekaltal camp site was at Khopadalia perched at 9689 ft and was partially covered with snow. Everywhere we looked, it looked white. The little tents we were provided were crampy but comfortable. Being surrounded by snow and slush made it very difficult to get in and out of the tent.
The simple, sumptuous and hot food we consumed in the dining tent was an experience in itself. The food simply tasted so much better after our long and tiring day. And thereafter the stories, jokes, games and experiences shared made it very memorable. More than anything, we already felt like a team. And mind you, all of us had barely met thirty-six hours before!
Next morning our Trek leader made us do warming up exercises before we started for the next camp. This was to be a steep climb through three to four feet of snow. We put on micro-spikes on our shoes and were ready to plod through the snow trail.
We stopped at the temple of Bekaltal. Legend has it that Brahma had done penance at Brahmatal lake and had hidden himself in Bekaltal.
The adjoining lake was completely frozen. It was indeed a very pretty site to watch it surrounded by alpine trees on all sides.
Bekaltal has a mythological background. It is believed that it houses the Kali Nag which has been blessed by Vishnu and has his abode here. His venom has no effect on the water and is safe for consumption.
Next day we set out for our next camp, which was located on the ridge-line leading to the Jhandi top. We trudged on heavy snow to gradually gain height. After about two hours we reached the ridge which allowed us to have views on both the sides of the ridgeline. The majestic views of Mt Nanda Ghunti and Mt Trishul in front and the views of the famous meadows of Ali and Bedni Bugyals of the Roopkund trail.
The temperatures drastically dropped to sub-zero as the sun set. The weather deteriorated in the night and we witnessed heavy snowfall all through the night.
We delayed our climb to Jhandi top the next day. Once the snowfall eased a bit and weather partially cleared, we made our move.
The climb to Jhandi top was steep and through knee deep snow. It was extremely windy and the chill made the progress very slow and difficult. But the effort was worth while.
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| Mt Trishul : Up and Close |
The view from Jhandi Top is mesmerizing as we witnessed Mt Trishul in its full glory. It felt so close. Close to the might of the mountain and also to the holiness it signified. It felt that we were really in Dev Bhoomi now.
But it again started snowing and became very windy. We debated if we should proceed and attempt the summit of Brahmatal. We succumbed to the allure of the summit and forged ahead.
We hurried towards the summit of Brahmatal in such difficult conditions. The ascent was made difficult by the constant snow hitting us hard on our face. Visibility was down to a few meters. In such blizzard like condition we finally made it to the Brahmatal summit. It was the siren song of the summit that did not let us quit, as we unanimously carried on . . . .
What is this strange force that draws us upwards?
This siren song. . . Of the summit.
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| The joy of summiting Brahmatal |
We scurried back and made our descent back to the warmth of our last campsite at Khorurai, which was an extremely beautiful location. Surrounded by the forests of Khoru trees, it was very serene, peaceful and mesmerising. The joy of successfully summiting Brahmatal was fresh in our minds. Now we wanted to rest and relax. It again snowed heavily all through the night.
The next day the descent to Lohajung base camp was fast, fun and easy. We realised how much altitude we had actually gained in the preceding two days. One doesn’t realise it because you are constantly looking at the ground beneath your feet. While descending you have a better view!
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| Khorurai campsite |
The Base camp at Lohajung appeared tamed, civilised and artificial contrasting against the wilderness which we had just experienced. It reminded us that we were to go back to our life in the urban jungles which we’ve created.
And somehow it felt sad and painful.
“You are not in the mountains. The mountains are in you.”
— John Muir
The mountains will beckon as time will pass. And I am sure the call of the wild will be irresistible.
Till then . . . . Chio.
Happy trekking.
Brahmatal Winter Trek Video
Video Credits : Ritesh Ranjan
